Standing in the kitchen of Pink Noodle, former home of Kitima, I watch Troy Bushyakanist and Adam Caughron debate about the new spring rolls recently added to the menu. Troy explains:
“They are changing the size of the rolls and they must be prepared very quickly or the wrappers can crack, rendering the rolls no good.”
Being allowed to stand in a kitchen and observe chefs at work is a welcome variation. It’s easy to forget the care that some dishes require. Precise cutting of lettuce, carrots, potatoes and the roasting of peanuts are just a small part of what goes in to Thai cuisine.
My first encounter with Pink Noodle was during Pride weekend as three of us stood on the corner of Fifth Avenue and University. We decided to head west in our quest for a late-night meal. My companions and I were invited into the Pink Noodle by the unforgettable Kitty Bushyakanist, one of three partners who own the restaurant.
The best way to describe Kitty is that she is part chef, part painter and part performance artist. She uses dramatic, sweeping gestures as she speaks, wielding a marvelous sense of humor.
Thai food is very delicate, and it avoids the excessive use of oils or deep frying, which can be found in other forms of Asian cuisine. As I scroll through the menu looking for things that are familiar, Troy places a plate in front me, asking my thoughts on the new dish he is adding to the menu.
The plate consists of steamed rice with peanut sauce, mixed green salad with ginger dressing and two spring rolls. Considering the late hour I found this to be a perfect late meal; healthy and not heavy and only $5.
Peanut sauce is made by roasting peanuts then crushing them in a mix of Massaman curry paste and coconut milk. Pink Noodle’s white rice and peanut sauce is perfect for a late night sweet tooth, whereas brown rice added to peanut sauce is more savory. A small bowl of either is only $3.
There is no Thai dish that cannot be made vegetarian or vegan. Pink Noodle is also very proud of the gluten-free menu which is available upon request.
A must try is the Pink Lady made with chicken, soft thin noodles, tofu, onion and coconut milk. The dish was originally reserved for Thai royalty. Even today, it’s perfect for any queen. The flavor of coconut and spices has a tropical feel that dances on the pallet. It is no secret among those who know me that I do not eat shell fish. As a food writer, I have friends whose palates I respect, and who enjoy pescados (little things from the sea) and I let them do the tasting – and so I did with the shrimp Pink Lady. My friends gave it rave reviews, and all would order it again for only $9.95.
The pineapple chicken fried rice is a festival of flavors mixed with chicken, cashew nuts, pineapple, raisins and Thai spices. Many words can be used to describe the dish, but how about: OMG it’s delicious for only $8.95.
For dessert I highly recommend the fried banana with house-made coconut ice cream and raspberry purée for $6.95 – absolutely perfect any time.
Happy hour consists of appetizers ($5), beer ($4), martinis ($6) and mixed drinks ($6), and happens every night 4-7 p.m. I should also point out that they use Han vodka.
Pink Noodle is open every day 11 a.m.-12 a.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday nights.
This review is for you Eleanor Widmer.
REVIEW
Pink Noodle Hillcrest
406 University Ave.
San Diego 92103
619-298-2929
insider scoop
Thai dining easier in Hillcrest than Bangkok this week
This week could be the only time a San Diegan might have more Thai-dining choices in their own backyard than someone living in, well … Bangkok.
According to the Bangkok Post, restaurants have become the latest victim of Thailand’s worst floods in 50 years.
Thai Hachiban Co., operator of the Hachiban Ramen chain, said up to 80 outlets have already been closed across Thailand since last week.
“Now we’re down to only six Ramen shops in the South, which is still dry. But these have only enough food to last until this Friday,” said one source.
