A gay old time in sultry San Juan: Part Two
Our entourage of dynamic correspondents disembarked at La Concha, an au courant Renaissance seaside resort. Mellow club music thumped in the background. Long low sofas lounged in the airy modern lobby. Think hip and chic. The itinerary for the day included lazing by the adults only infinity pool or relaxing on the private beach. I couldn’t wait to stretch my legs on a long walk down the shore and to swim in the warm Caribbean waters. The complimentary canvas shoulder bag provided at check-in came in handy. My stroll took me past what I suspected might be a gay beach; dozens of speedo-clad men, solo or in couples, tanning on blankets. A delightful surprise.
Later that evening, JC, our affable LGBT ambassador, confirmed my observation as we dined buffet-style on the Presidential Suite patio. City lights gleamed from our perch high atop the hotel. “The beach has remained gay even though the lodging is no longer gay exclusive,” he explained.
I asked JC about Renaissance’s LGBT outreach program and about the corporate environment. “We’re very pro-active,” he replied. “We have a huge national campaign and advertise in LGBT magazines. Renaissance, part of the Marriott family, builds diversity and inclusion into our core values. Same-sex couples receive the same benefits as everybody else, for example.”
I left the patio and stepped inside to join a group of reporters seated around a white marble table. The mood was much different, the conversation more somber. The topic was Puerto Rico and its future. “Our people are moving to the States, our economy is in tatters, but still we remain optimistic. There is great potential here if nothing else,” said a Renaissance associate.
“But how will Puerto Rico move forward? What’s the solution?” I queried.
“Statehood,” was his answer. An answer I would hear again and again whenever I raised the issue with locals.
The itinerary had us going to Circo nightclub and I wanted to change clothes before dashing out for the evening. Chicago told me he was leaving early and flying home in the morning. “Don’t leave without saying goodbye,” I said. He knocked on the door while I was ironing a shirt. We talked about the articles we were writing for our publications, then he kissed me deeply and I kissed him back. “Come to Chicago,” he said some time later as I walked him to the door. “I’ll be there in June if not sooner,” I promised. A final lingering embrace and he was gone.
Our flamboyant group of LGBT journalists fluttered over cocktails at La Concha’s sophisticated lobby bar before climbing into a van bound for Circo Club. We clambered out of the transport moments later and were patted down by security before entering the lively hotspot.
A lot of excitement and activity is packed into the small multi-level bar. Circo didn’t get busy until around midnight and when it did, the lid blew off. The high energy drag show was top notch and the outrageous emcee – Dia de los Muertos style makeup with chrome spikes around his eyes and white contact lenses was hilarious. A little scary, but harmless and thrilling. I left the bar around 4 a.m. with JC and his partner – my wordsmithing comrades had scattered – and we walked a few short blocks back to the hotel.
“See all those empty store fronts?” JC directed my attention to a row of dark buildings. The quiet streets were devoid of people or cars. “This was a thriving theater district just a few years ago, but nobody has money for that now.”
A short time later while lying in bed, I began to feel sympathy for Puerto Rico. The centuries of colonialism and exploitation. Regardless of their long turbulent history and uncertain economic future, the hard-working people have remained friendly and hopeful. But what could be done to set Puerto Rico on a new prosperous trajectory; to atone? My restless thoughts tumbled into an uneasy sleep.
The last full day in Puerto Rico dawned with a threat of rain. Banks of bullying clouds darkened the horizon. Our itinerary was the busiest of the trip, by which I mean that, in addition to lunch and hours by the pool, there were also spa treatments. Talk about pampered!
We spent the day at the neighboring sister hotel, Condado Vanderbilt. Originally constructed in 1919 – think pink marble and grand staircases – the hotel is the standard of excellence for opulent resorts in San Juan. The plush Spanish Revival architectural gem has been restored to its full luxurious luster and infused with modern amenities.
Lunch at Tequila and Tapas was hosted by the manager and staff members from the Vanderbilt. In addition to endless tasty small plates and tantalizing desserts, we were treated to samples of Patrón Barrel Select Añejo Tequila. “Oak casked?” I asked the manager; the pale gold agave nectar was woodsy, smokey and smooth. A sipping tequila. A tequila to savor. “You have a discerning palate,” he nodded. I finished my repast then found my way to the spa.
Oscar greeted me when I entered the serene space, pointed out the many amenities and said “everything’s for your pleasure.” I barely had time to work up a good sweat in the steam room when Oscar let me know my esthetician would be ready in about five minutes. I rinsed off in the “rainforest” shower, slipped into a thick robe, and shuffled off to my appointment.
This was my first facial and afterwards, wondered why I had waited so long to enjoy the rejuvenating experience. I spent the rest of the day lounging in the pool with my fellow journalists, gazing at the ocean, swilling mojitos.
The evening’s dinner was a glamorous melancholy affair. The table in La Concha’s Ocean Lounge was impeccably set and the dishes were well prepared, but the mood was like the last night of summer camp when you had to say goodbye to your new friends, leave all the fun behind and return to your day-to-day life. We finished our desserts, posed for a group photo and then discussed the evening’s activities. Although we were scheduled to go out on the town, a few of us decided to chill at the hotel instead.
One of the new friends I was saying goodbye to was “Mistress”, a captivating writer for Curve magazine. She and I hung out in the hotel casino and tried our luck at slot machines while getting acquainted. Mistress is the sort of person you meet and feel like you’ve known before, perhaps in a previous lifetime. Ours was a comfortable familiarity. Wasn’t long before I hit a small jackpot and tripled my money. “You must be my lucky star,” I sang. “You don’t strike me as a Madonna sort of guy,” she joked. We exchanged numbers before retiring to our rooms.
Wouldn’t you know, but there was a complimentary bottle of select Tequila and a rainbow of macaroons waiting on the table in my suite. They sure know how to make a guy feel welcome. I packed my bags and checked-in online for tomorrow’s flight before drifting off to dreamland.
I was at the airport when I realized the book bag containing my laptop and camera was in the back seat of the shiny black long gone Escalade. That’s the moment my stomach sank and the panic set in. I texted Allyson and Alexis, the goddesses from NJFPR, and explained the situation. “Don’t worry. We’re on it,” they said.
My panic was short lived. An hour later, Raul, the handsome hunky chauffeur, pulled to the curb and handed me the errant satchel. The tinted rear window rolled down and there beamed Mistress. I kissed her cheek, wished her safe travels and promised to stay in touch.
The Puerto Rico trip had gone splendidly well. Four nights and three days filled with world class hotels, gourmet dinners, sun-drenched beaches and warm tropical waters. Narrow cobblestone streets, luxurious spa treatments and raucous nightclubs.
San Juan, Puerto Rico – the Caribbean’s friendliest LGBT destination – had captured my heart. I didn’t know when, but I knew one day I’d return to explore the island’s rainforests and bioluminescent bays; to spend days becoming better acquainted with Puerto Rico’s gregarious and gracious people.
Well, that’s my story, but what will be yours? Whether you’re planning a tropical wedding, a honeymoon, or a well-deserved vacation, you’re sure to have a gay old time in sultry San Juan.
For more information on Puerto Rico visit seepuertorico.com
