I confess it was love at first sight. You had me at “farm to table”. I was charmed by your shabby chic style, your sassy offbeat sophistication. I admit my adoration has only grown through the years.
Or was it love at first bite? Brooklyn Girl, since opening their doors in 2011, has been the epicenter of the epicurean earthquake rattling Mission Hills, and is consistently included on short lists of the best restaurants in San Diego. What’s not to love? Chandeliers in birdcages overhead. White subway tile accents on the walls. An excellent selection of craft beers and wines in addition to a full bar pouring craft cocktails. An incredible well-balanced menu of expertly prepared dishes.
My long-time friend and I were seated promptly at the reserved time one recent weeknight. Our made-to-order cucumber infused mojitos arrived within moments. Libby was very affable, answered all of our questions and offered helpful suggestions. We placed our orders and gossiped while awaiting the appetizers, roasted bone marrow and crab rangoon blossoms. The hollowed half bone is filled with rich beefy marrow and earthy mushrooms blended with bleu and goat cheese, then topped with fresh herbs and citrus zest, and served with crisp crostini. So primitive. So primal, but so delicious. By contrast, the squash blossoms are stuffed with blue crab meat, scallions, garlic and a velvety mix of ricotta and goat cheese, then lightly battered and fried to a delicate crunch. So civilized. So evocative, and so not to be missed.
I ordered a glass of Joel Gott “Willamette” 2012 Pinot Noir, a light bodied red with notes of tart cherry and raspberry with soft tannins. We gazed around the mid-sized high-ceilinged space and eavesdropped on the conversations of others; a family at a long communal table celebrating a patriarch’s birthday, a young couple on a romantic date.
The entrées soon arrived. My friend chose the roasted lamb while I opted for the Duroc pork chop. He chuckled when I called him “Clarice”. Tender slices of sumptuous rare lamb are served with herbed house-made gnocchi, Tahitian squash, sautéed savoy spinach, fresh mint gremolata and lamb jus. He feigned disappointment when there were no “fava beans and a nice chianti”. The succulent 12-oz bone-in pork chop is brined for 12 hours in a blend of salt water and spices, then flash grilled to a turn and served with roasted sunchokes (a tuber with a mild artichoke-like flavor), assorted baby carrots, tangy braised greens, a sweet apple/pear spiced chutney and mustard pork jus. Every bite was a symphony of flavors and textures.
Libby tempted us with the dessert menu. I was drawn to the key lime pie in a jar with short bread cookie crust and meringue. My friend ogled the bourbon apple galette with vanilla bean gelato. Our eyes said yes, but our waistlines said no. “Next time,” I whispered as the menus were relinquished. Our check came to $130 which is a good price point for a memorable mouth-watering meal.
Brooklyn Girl (4033 Goldfinch Street) has a wonderful pantry to go, and serves lunch and dinner as well as a great brunch menu on weekends. They are also teaming up with Societe Brewing Feb. 10 for a five-course beer and food pairing. Contact Brooklyn Girl for time and ticket availability. Stay hungry, and eat this! brooklyngirleatery.com
