I was struck by a moment of clarity one recent Friday evening while strolling along University Avenue in the heart of North Park. You know the moment I’m talking about – the exact instant you realize that, after a happy hour cocktail or three, you really should get something to eat. Nothing too complicated or time-consuming, but something satisfying and quick. Fortunately, my epiphany occurred at the doorstep of City Tacos, “an enchanting neighborhood taquería”.
I was seduced by their menu of craft tacos and bewitched by the heavenly aromas wafting above the crowded sidewalk. Yes, craft tacos. Owner Gerry Torres, hailing from Mexico City, takes pride in adding a distinctly Southern California twist to the traditional Mexican favorite, elevating the humble hand-held fare to a new height in a town teeming with taco shops. I placed my order at the counter and stocked up at the fresh salsa bar filling small cups with roja and verde salsas and pickled carrots and peppers, before finding a seat on the patio. Three small baskets of steamy-hot goodness arrived almost immediately. Ravished, I devoured each with gusto. Every bite was a full-spectrum delight of flavor and texture.
Each tasty tidbit comes wrapped in a warm house-made flour tortilla. The Puerco Agridulce taco begins with a generous portion of succulent pork tenderloin lightly sauced with a peppery sweet and sour demi glace. While the avocado pulp, cilantro, red onion and diced Serrano chile are flavorful traditional toppings, the fried rice noodles, an unexpected addition, provided a wonderful crunch.
Next up was the Pollo Asado taco. The tender grilled chicken breast is combined with piquant arugula greens, diced tomatoes, sweet golden raisins and toasted almonds. A drizzle of tamarind aioli completes the sweet and savory selection.
Finally, saving the best for last, I segued to the Mahi Al Adobo taco. The delicate adobo-rubbed* filet is lightly seared, topped with chunky mango habanero jelly, then nestled on a smoked chipotle avocado cream sauce. A flavorful reinvention of San Diego’s hallmark dish.
The brief menu also includes two vegetarian selections; the beer battered Chile Relleno and the Portobello Con Vegetables tacos. Every item is inspired by recipes passed down through generations, and incorporates fresh locally grown produce and seasonal selections. Their aguas frescas and salsas are prepared on site daily, too.
An intimate and casual establishment, City Tacos (3028 University Ave.) is open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily and until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. Their outdoor seating is great for watching North Park’s vibrant street life. Did I mention they pour craft beers and wines? They also team up with Mike Hess Brewing Company for one of the best “Taco Tuesday” pairings in San Diego. Seriously. You can’t go wrong with $3 tacos and $2 bottles of imported beers.
It was my first visit, but it won’t be my last. And I’m not alone in my praise. Find out for yourself why City Tacos has garnered a 4.5 star review on Yelp! Stay hungry, and eat this! citytacossd.com
*A “rub” is a blend of spices rubbed on raw food before cooking. An adobo rub typically includes a variety of chile powders, cumin, garlic, lime juice and cooking oil.
