Lunch, as described in the English Oxford Dictionary from 1580, is a “meal inserted between more substantial meals”. During the Industrial Revolution in the 1800s, factory workers brought a small nosh with them to eat during the middle of the day. Soon after, an hour-long midday break became the workday norm, and small eateries sprang up near factories to prepare food for the working class. The meal became an established part of the daily routine and remains so today. Not surprisingly, the portable food item known as a sandwich became a popular lunchtime staple, easily packed for work, school or a picnic.
One of my favorite places for sandwiches and lunch is the Big Front Door, 4135 Park Blvd., a savory deli co-owned and operated by Steve “Sheep” Riley and his wife, Laura. The dynamic duo’s impressive resume reflects a wealth of experience. Their culinary chops were honed at Indigo Grill, Kemo Sabe, Firehouse American Eatery and Lounge, Kensington Grill, and Cucina Urbana. The high-ceilinged room uses flaxen-hued woods, concrete block, stainless steel and exposed ventilation conduits to imbue a relaxed industrial vibe. Sunlight spilling from skylights and pouring through the massive glass front door fills the friendly neighborhood space with plenty of light. Diners find their seats at a long communal table after their sandwiches are made-to-order behind the gleaming deli counter.
My handsome assistant and I dined al fresco on a recent Monday. We ordered the BGP and the double smoked Berkshire ham sandwiches, sides of macaroni and potato salad and a cup of the black bean chili. The mayonnaise-dressed salads are freshly prepared and satisfying, but nothing exceptional. The chili however, is an entirely different story. The full-throated blend of broth, tomatoes, onions, ground beef, black beans and a healthy dose of chili powder, is slowly simmered and thickened with masa harina, then served with a dollop of sour cream, chopped green onions and sharp cheddar cheese. Perfect rib-sticking fare for a fall day.
The sandwiches begin with wholesome artisan breads from Sadie Rose Baking Co. BGP tops sourdough bread with a mound of thinly sliced tender roast beef, smoked Gouda cheese, pepperoncini, lettuce, tomato, red onion, a splash of oil and vinegar and a slather of chipotle aioli. A wonderful blend of delectable flavors with a tart bite. The double smoked Berkshire ham is absolutely sublime. Thin slices of succulent ham are heaped on a torpedo roll, then topped with Swiss cheese, house mustard (“A blend of yellow and Dijon mustards,” Sheep confided), tomatoes and lettuce. Seriously, I’ve never tasted such flavorful ham. Sheep told me the meat is delivered smoked, but is then slow-cooked for an additional six hours in the smoker with his “secret blend” of hardwoods. I was fishing when I asked if he used peach or apple chips in the blend, but he would only admit to incorporating hickory and mesquite woods. Other ingredients are, well, a secret.
All foods are prepared on-site. The kitchen, which can be viewed through a large glass wall, doesn’t have any fryers, griddles or micro-wave ovens. BFD also offers a judicious selection of craft beers, wines and a variety of sodas, juices and waters. The deli earned 4.5 stars and rave reviews on Yelp! You owe it to yourself to visit Sheep and Laura and discover just exactly what’s the big f’ing deal about the Big Front Door. They’re open daily 11-8, and are available to cater your next event, too.
