I’m retired, but not so far removed from the daily grind that I don’t remember the joy inspired by those two simple words, “Happy Hour” – the time of day known for bars and restaurants offering discounted drinks and food. But did you know it’s a time of day rooted in a pre-World War I Navy tradition, then used as a promotional gimmick by bars near naval bases in the ‘50s? Being a “Navy Town,” I’m pleased to report San Diego has remained true to its roots, but the old salts might not recognize today’s gastro-centric happy hour.
As previously mentioned (“Foodies Delight: Part 2”, issue 154), Café21 proffers an amazing possibility of combinations for creating an unforgettable happy hour. With 21 hand-crafted tapas on the menu, each only $4, how can you go wrong?
Café21 is an intimate space tucked in the corner of an unassuming strip mall. Like a cool oasis, the dining room and patio remind me of a modern oda; elegant brass tea servers and brassieres on the walls, oversized lanterns, copper utensils and gauzy fabrics overhead.
Overwhelmed by options, I asked Laura, one of the convivial staff, for her recommendations. Without skipping a beat, she cheerfully steered me toward the potato pancake with braised short rib, and the curry chicken cake with arugula. I’m glad she did.
The potato pancake is a galette of grated potatoes and mozzarella cheese, with an amazing consistency somewhere between a fluffy mash and a crispy hash brown. The sweetness of the tender short ribs, braised in a Marsala chai tea, red onion honey and mission fig sauce, is complemented by the sharp bite of gorgonzola cheese crumbles. Edible flower petals provide a scatter of color. In brief, every bite is a forkful of heaven.
The curry chicken cake is a smooth blend of poultry and spice with plenty of turmeric for flavor and color. The grilled patty is topped with nutty organic arugula dressed in a creamy green goddess. I only wish the curry provided a sweet counterpoint to the savory composition by incorporating golden raisins, perhaps. Otherwise, the dish is executed flawlessly.
Pressing on, I asked Jacinto which fries he preferred, the avocado or the portobello mushrooms? “Portobello,” he replied without hesitation. Thin strips of the meaty mushroom are lightly breaded with rice flour, sea salt and cracked pepper, which provides a satisfying delicate crunch. The fries are served with a creamy goat cheese and smoky chipotle aioli, and a more traditional spicy garlic variety. Both sauces enhance the mushrooms flavor without overpowering its earthiness.
Moving to the sweeter side of tapas, Priscilla recommended the flourless chocolate cake with raspberry puree. Each individually prepared ramekin contains a sinfully smooth dark chocolate concoction with a light velvety crumb. I asked chef Hector how he created the illusion. Hector, with a wink, said the ‘cake’ is a mousse made with egg whites, sugar, cocoa and a bit of “secret ingredient”.
Beverages include a large selection of wines, a judicious number of craft beers on tap and a variety of seasonal sangrias. I chose Hillcrest Brewing Company’s Hefeweizen as a pairing for my food, but could not resist tasting the pear jalapeno agave sangria. Imagine the peppery nip of a Bloody Mary, except blended with the sweetness of pear and agave syrup instead of tomato. Yum yum.
Discover why Café21 takes pride in serving fresh “neighborhood fare with flair”. You’ll be glad you did. Be sure to grab their flyer worth 12 percent off breakfast and 21 percent off dinner.
Café21, 2736 Adams Ave. “Happiest Hour” 3 – 6 p.m., every day.
