“Brunch is a late breakfast – with booze.” — George Takei
Brunch, how I love the word! A portmanteau of ‘breakfast’ and ‘lunch’ resulting in a sum greater than its parts. Brunch, how I love the concept! Arising late on a leisurely weekend before enjoying a delightful repast with friends. Or family. With booze.
As previously reported (A Foodies’ Delight: Part 2, Issue 154), I adore Heat Bar and Kitchen; their brunch menu is merely one of the many reasons for my affection. The handsome young man accompanying me on a recent Sunday morning was my nephew (I know what you’re thinking, but he’s truly my nephew). He recently divulged his desire to develop a more mature palate. I had originally intended to interview him as he explored the subtleties of flavor, but, alas, his aggressive allergies destroyed his sense of smell and rendered his palate useless. Regardless, we pressed on undaunted.
We were greeted by the friendly staff as we entered the bright and airy high-ceilinged dining room, and by greeted I mean everybody gave us a hug and a heartfelt “good to see you.” You’re only a stranger the first time you visit Heat. Thereafter, you’re part of the family.
We opted to dine al fresco and were seated at a shady table where we could converse and watch people passing by on the sidewalk. To provide a flavorful contrast and varied experience, we ordered something sweet, the Crispy Brioche French Toast, and something savory, the Heat Chilaquiles. Our champagne flutes remained filled with bottomless mimosas ($10 with purchase of meal).
Brioche is a light puffy pastry whose high egg and butter content give it a tenderness and full body. Thick slices of the enriched bread flavored with a kiss of cinnamon are dipped in a mixture of egg and milk, and then quickly grilled to a lacy golden brown. The seasonal fruit compote, orange zest and honey bourbon ricotta were the perfect accompaniment – no syrup required.
The chilaquiles begin with crunchy tortilla strips and tender chunks of braised chicken. The salsa rojo is a sublime well-balanced blend of chocolate and roasted chiles – think ‘mole lite’. Two sunny side eggs are nested beneath crumbles of cotija cheese and drizzled with tangy avocado sour cream. Sprigs of fresh cilantro provide a bright pop of color atop the tone-on-tone selection.
The brunch menu is varied and offers something for everybody. Vegan? Help yourself to the flavorful tofu scramble. Vegetarian? Choose the house granola, frittata or the leek and truffle quiche. Gluten free? There’s an organic greens and vegetable salad tossed in a zesty Dijon vinaigrette which can be complemented with salmon medallions, or thyme roasted chicken.
A word of caution about the leek and truffle quiche – it is extremely addictive. The contrast of tender onion-like leeks and firm earthy truffles, combined with a rich blend of egg, whipping cream and Swiss cheese, baked in a flaky buttery crust, then served steaming hot from the oven with chilled fresh fruit or salad, will get you hooked and coming back for more.
You owe it to yourself to discover why Heat Bar and Kitchen received the 2014 Nicky Award for Outstanding Brunch. In addition to their unwavering commitment to community, owners Sam Khorish and Pascal Courtin deliver on their promise of preparing delicious cuisine crafted from local farms. Their menus, using the freshest ingredients and inspired by the seasons, are French-inspired, but California-rooted. In the words of my allergy-impaired nephew, “Bon appetite, brah!”
Heat Bar and Kitchen, 3797 Park Blvd. Brunch served Sat. and Sun., 9 a.m. – 3 p.m.
EDITORS NOTE: San Diego LGBT Weekly is pleased to welcome Lance Ryder as a regular contributor. Known for his sometimes provocative feature articles, Lance’s bi-weekly local food and beverage heads up reviews will encourage hungry readers to dig in and “Eat This!”
