We hope you enjoyed the mouth-watering reviews of restaurants and eateries in Mission Hills, Bankers Hill and Hillcrest (issue #153). We continue our exploration of gastronomic delights in this issue and sample the fare found throughout University Heights, South Park, North Park and Adams Avenue. Eat this, hungry readers!
University Heights
Pomegranate (2312 El Cajon Blvd.) offers Russian-Georgian cuisine. Borscht? You bet. Their deep red-purple beetroot soup is simmered for hours until the chunks of beet melt in your mouth and is served with a dollop of sour cream. My friend raved about the Salad Sampler Platter which offers tastes of potato, beet, carrot, eggplant and bean salads. I was smitten by the pelmeni dumplings stuffed with meats and topped with a yogurt dill sauce. For dessert, we split the Toad Sweat Ice Cream which brought a bit of heat to the cool sweetness. Lots of fascinating graffiti on the walls of the dimly lit dining room.
If you’re yearning for modern European fare, then visit Hanna’s Gourmet (2864 Adams Ave.). The apple and goat cheese stuffed chicken was filling, but not heavy. The potato butternut squash mash paired well with the chicken as did the tarragon sauce. Linger in the Hanna’s bright homey dining room or on the adjacent patio. Be sure to leave room for dessert. The moist carrot cake is phenomenal and you might want to take a second slice home for a midnight treat. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
“Hang loose” at Chris’ Ono Grinds Island Grill (4506 30th St.) where you’ll find a paradise of Hawaiian flavors. The robust menu offers pupus, plates, mini-plates, burgers, soups and salads. The Waimea wings are charbroiled and juicy, and served with your choice of Guava BBG, Huli huli (Hawaiian-style teriyaki), Buffalo or Lava sauce. The grilled mahi mahi plate is served with a spicy creamy cilantro jalapeno sauce and your choice of sides: mac salad, coleslaw, sweet potato medallions (yummy!), baked beans chips, or soup. Open daily 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.
North Park
North Park is not only where you’ll find bearded hipsters in skinny jeans, but also where you’ll discover a rich variety of dining alternatives. For brunch, happy hour or dinner, I love Heat Bar and Kitchen (3797 Park Blvd.). Their menu offers French-inspired California cuisine made with the freshest ingredients. Brunch is best enjoyed with a bottomless mimosa on the canine-friendly patio. Happy hour is also a great value and an opportunity to sample several bites. My favorite dinner entrée is the duroc all-natural pork chop served with soft polenta, charred radicchio and a chutney chockablock with raisins, apples and persimmons. Whether seated at the bar or a table in the warm glow of the dining room’s LED-lit “lava wall”, the friendly attentive staff will make you feel right at home.
If your out of town guests are vegan/vegetarian and looking for authentic Mexican food, then they’ll adore Ranchos Cocina (3910 30th St.). The family owned and operated restaurant opened its doors in 1995 and offers delicious meals prepared from traditional recipes passed down through generations. Most of the dishes on their extensive menu can be prepared with meat or an alternative protein. My affections are torn between the pollo en salsa de mole and the blue corn avocado enchilada with salsa verde. Enjoy a frosty cold domestic or imported beer, or a glass of homemade horchata in the colorful and bright dining room.
Ready for a trip back in time? Then step through the portal and into the distinctly old-school ambience of the Red Fox Steakhouse and Piano Bar (2223 El Cajon Blvd.) From the moment you slide into the red Naugahyde booth, you realize you’re in an iconic establishment. I enjoyed the petite filet mignon with a buttery tarragon laced béarnaise sauce. Grilled to perfection, the medium rare filet was tender and flavorful. All entrées come with a relish dish, salad, choice of baked potato or rice pilaf and garlic toast. The dressings are homemade and the thousand island was a hearty dose of sweet with bits of tangy pickle. Live music nightly. Open for lunch, too.
South Park
Big Kitchen Cafe (3003 Grape St.) is where you’ll find good food, friendly service and a heapin’ helpin’ of Judy “The Beauty” Forman’s hospitality. The muffins and coffeecakes are baked fresh daily. The turkey breasts are slow roasted for flavor and tenderness. But it’s more than just delicious food. The Big Kitchen Cafe is about community and celebrating the arts. Both body and soul will be nourished when you visit the cozy comfortable restaurant. Try one of the several scrambles or frittatas for breakfast, or a large fresh salad or one of the daily specials for lunch. The menu offers several vegetarian selections, too. Open daily 7:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
If you love chocolate, and who doesn’t, then you’ll find your nirvana at Eclipse Chocolate Bar and Bistro (2145 Fern St.). Their artisan truffles, cupcakes, caramels and chocolate beverages are made from scratch and will satisfy your sweet tooth. The menu also offers an eclectic variety of small savory plates infused with chocolate, vanilla or caramel. I adored the bleu cheese pecan salad with chile spiced pecans and vanilla vinaigrette. Eclipse Chocolate also has monthly events such as craft beer pairings with cheeses and sweets. They also donate 10 percent of their net income as in-kind donations to local charities.
Built on the site where a trolley depot once stood, the spacious and eye-catching Station Tavern and Burgers (2204 Fern St.) was awarded a Grand Orchid award in 2009 by the San Diego Architectural Foundation. But it’s the burgers and craft beers that will keep you coming back for more. The patty options include Angus chuck, turkey, spicy black bean, or chickpea. Top your burger with bacon, a fried egg, sauerkraut or caramelized onions. All condiments are made in-house and include ketchup, honey mustard, chipotle mayo, lime cilantro and a smokey paprika sauce. The menu offers many specials, too. Closed Mondays.
Adams Avenue
Adams Avenue is the thread stitching together the neighborhoods of University Heights, Normal Heights and Kensington, and is the address of many restaurants offering every style and cuisine. Begin your day at Lestat’s Coffee House (3343 Adams Ave.). Open 24 hours a day, Lestat’s offers great coffees and teas as well as delectable salads, soups and sandwiches. I ordered the turkey sandwich with the works on herb ciabatta and it was fresh and delicious. Pair your sandwich with chips and a bowl of soup or vegetarian chili for a Souper Douper Special.
Cafe 21 (2736 Adams Ave.) is open for brunch, happy hour and dinner. Their recipes are prepared with fresh local ingredients and world flavors. Enjoy a huge variety of $4 Happy Hour tapas ranging from homemade potato pancakes, to portobello mushroom fries, to four-cheese fondue with pear and crostini. Open seven days a week.
Open daily, Zagat rated Adams Avenue Grill (2201 Adams Ave.) offers a wide variety of options for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Chef-owner Tim Klepeis is passionate about innovative entrées and tantalizing specials. The homey casual dining room can get crowded during peak hours, so reservations are recommended. Just close your eyes and point at the menu – you will not be disappointed. Seriously, you can’t go wrong.
