I have memories from my childhood of my mother and father getting up at the crack of dawn Thanksgiving Day to make sure the turkey got in the oven on time. Marinated with butter and herbs, it seemed to cook for hours and hours – filling the house with that classic Thanksgiving smell.
Looking back, oh how the turkey has changed. The simple stuffing of breadcrumbs and butter has become a thing of the past.
Rubs of all kinds have appeared on the Turkey Day scene; and they can range anywhere from Cajun Creole to French gourmet in taste and style. The days of simple bread-and-sausage stuffing has made way for modern day recipes. Dates, figs, raisins and nuts make for a sweeter taste, while truffles, pancetta, and foie gras bring to the table a decadent and rich style.
These days, it’s all about being creative and taking risks. Use clementines instead of oranges, grapefruits instead of lemons. Make an herbed butter with thyme, sage and rosemary instead of using just the plain condiment. Deep frying is still the trend of the day and it seems that every store is selling fryers. Grilling, rotisserie, brining and poaching have taken the place of the very standard oven roasting. Recipes of all kinds can be found online, in foodie magazines and even on chef’s Web sites.
In some households and restaurants, chef’s are moving away from turkey altogether. Capon and hen have moved into the starring role of the dinner table. Different and flavorful, they can be a bit difficult to work with, so if you are just entering the ring of holiday cooking, I’d stick with the traditional bird until you have mastered the craft.
One thing this year I must urge everyone to try, regardless of your culinary ability: Go to one of our many local farms and buy a fresh turkey. The difference is telling, and you will thank me afterward. You don’t need to go and pick out a live Tom, but a turkey that is fresh and ready to go will make a world of difference in flavor and moistness of the meat.
The great thing about all this turkey evolution is that every year you can do something different. Your guests will never get bored.
So, if you are braving the holiday in the kitchen this year, try something new and create your own tradition. One of the best Web sites for all your Thanksgiving ideas is epicurious.com. Check it out; they have hundreds of ideas and recipes like the one in this issue.
