October brings many wonderful things when it comes around each year. After trying to prolong summer as long as we can through September, October graces the season. Each year, it’s arrival announces that fall is upon us. And even though people make fun of me for doing so, I’ll say it again: You can smell October in the air.
All over the world, people celebrate the change that is inevitable as this month unfolds. Just how that unfolding looks depends upon where you happen to be. Growing up on the East Coast, I remember when the days started to turn decidedly away from late summer. A cool brisk breeze would startle the air, while trees began their transformations into a color extravaganza.
Here in San Diego, our change isn’t as dramatic. But, even in paradise, we feel the seasonal shift associated with October. Cooler days and still cooler nights replace the long, dog days of summer. And although not that frequently, we do start to see rain now and then.
With all these changes in temperature and climate, the food people eat changes too. Braises and hearty game meats make appearances on chefs’ menus around town. The crisp, fresh flavors of summer make way for soft and savory autumn accents.
Chefs – professional and home – around the world look forward to this season every year. The deeply rooted ingredients that were planted way back in the early parts of summer start to mature, and their flavors are fully developed.
But October offers much beyond apples and pumpkins. As do their counterparts across the country and around the globe do, San Diego’s great chefs also start changing their menus, taking advantage of the abundance of fall flavors.
Although some of your favorite summer ingredients, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, crab and every berry you can image start to disappear, they are replaced with fennel, celery root and wild mushrooms galore. Tarts are created, vegetables are slow cooked and fruits are dried and used savory as well as sweet.
Not only do we see a shift in vegetable use, but October also brings the return of game meats. Duck, venison, pheasant and lamb are prepared more often than chicken or beef in most well-staffed kitchens. These meats are braised, roasted and stewed.
All around town we have great chefs who understand the beauty of the season. Let’s applaud the several who excel at understanding the true meaning of farm-to-table cuisine, while delivering on its promise.
At Kitchen 1540 at the deluxe L’Auberge Del Mar Resort and Spa, Chef Paul McCabe moves his exquisite summer menu into a succulent example of autumn. Using only what’s in season, Chef McCabe focuses on only the best fall has to offer. The California White Rabbit ($16) is a crisp confit leg served with a sausage stuffed loin. Olive oil-whipped potatoes and prosciutto jus round out the gamey dish. I love Chef’s brave use of rabbit.
Over in University Heights, Chef Olivier Bioteau of the delightful Farm House Café is celebrating his bounty and creativity by dedicating specific days to the styles of fall. Every Sunday, Chef Olivier will be offering a seasonal preparation of duck confit. Through the years I have had Chef Olivier’s duck confit prepared many ways. I don’t think I have ever had a better version of this iconic dish anywhere outside of France. Always a crispy leg, Chef keeps the meat tender and delicious. Sundays just got a lot better for all of us.
At the ever-so-popular Bencotto in Little Italy, Chef Fabrizio Cavallini showcases the Northern Italian style of fall food. Beautiful hams and loins are used with rich and hearty tomato sauces. Their gorgeous prosciuttos that have been curing all year and have just started to appear on the plates of those fortunate enough to come to Bencotto by chance, as well as those with discriminating palates who come expecting the dining experience they will have.
Roasted olives and dried fruits of all kinds are rolled and mixed with veal, pork and venison. And I swear, Chef bottled his sauce months ago and, like my grandmother used to, he has had it hiding in a cool closet for months until the fall and winter months make their way into the year. These flavors are so developed, I must get the recipe.
A good friend of mine says he always looks forward to October because he can finally bring out all of his little jackets to wear. Another begins planning what color she is going to use on her Christmas tree. For myself, it’s fall food that’s exciting. As the seasons roll out one from another, I love the seasonal foods that they offer.
Every season brings a bountiful array of great, fresh ingredients for chefs to use. Thankfully, we have many talented chefs in town, all of whom appreciate, as much as I do, the fact that the seasons change. I especially appreciate and admire chefs who take advantage of what change brings.
October’s in full swing and, yes, I’m very excited. Even Charlie Brown and the Peanuts gang get excited about October as they wait for the Great Pumpkin to arrive. Our Chefs wait for it too, but they turn it into delicious pies, among a plethora of other dishes. How will you celebrate the flavors of this month? Maybe you’ll treat yourself to a visit to the restaurants I’ve selected for your autumnal enjoyment.
Kitchen 1540
1540 Camino Del Mar
in Del Mar
858-793-6460
Farm House Café
2121 Adams Ave.
in San Diego
619-269-9662
Bencotto Italian Kitchen
750 West Fir St.
in San Diego
619-450-4786
insider scoop
Duck Confit
3 tablespoons salt
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
6 sprigs thyme
Coarsely ground black pepper
4 duck legs with thighs
4 duck wings, trimmed
About 4 cups duck fat
1. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of salt in the bottom of a dish or plastic container large enough to hold the duck pieces in a single layer. Evenly scatter half the garlic, shallots, and thyme in the container. Arrange the duck, skin-side up, over the salt mixture, then sprinkle with the remaining salt, garlic, shallots, and thyme and a little pepper. Cover and refrigerate for one to two days.
2. Preheat the oven to 225 degrees. Melt the duck fat in a small saucepan. Brush the salt and seasonings off the duck. Arrange the duck pieces in a single snug layer in a high-sided baking dish or ovenproof saucepan. Pour the melted fat over the duck (the duck pieces should be covered by fat) and place the confit in the oven. Cook the confit slowly at a very slow simmer — just an occasional bubble — until the duck is tender and can be easily pulled from the bone, two to three hours. Remove the confit from the oven. Cool and store the duck in the fat.
