The abundance of Mexican restaurants in San Diego is just another reason I love this town. We have everything from high-end establishments to the 3 a.m. “hole in the walls,” which we all must admit we love. Even our Old Town neighborhood is dedicated to celebrating Mexican culture and cuisine. Some of my favorite Mexican restaurants are there and have been around for 30 years, operating as they always have with family all around.
That’s why I was surprised to find one in our own backyard. Barrio Star graces the corner of Fifth and Nutmeg Street where you can’t miss the bright red orange building. Just on the border of Hillcrest and Bankers Hill, I think it is one of the best additions to our community.
Offering a twist on classic Latin cuisine in all her restaurants, restaurateur and chef Isabel Cruz chose to focus on the soul side of the culture for Barrio Star. Brilliantly executed, Mexican cuisine has never been so good.
The vibrant flavors she introduces to the diner certainly have earned her some well-deserved national praise. Even her cookbook, Isabel’s Cantina: Bold Latin Flavors from the New California Kitchen has been rated as one the most notable by the New York Times, and with good reason. Her unique recipes have become a signature for chef Isabel and certainly that is the case for the menu at Barrio Star. Branch out with an open mind and just follow her lead.
Sliced Cucumbers with Cumin, Red Chilies and a Cilantro Lime Sauce ($3.50) are such a refreshing change from the typical chips and salsa. The marriage of the bitter cumin with the tangy lime sauce, matched with the heat of the chilies and the crunch of the cucumber is the perfect way to start your culinary adventure.
The classic Tortilla Soup ($6) is done in an alternative way by reversing the star of the dish. A base is made from roasted red guajillo chilis and the corn is made into a simple garnish. The guajillo chili’s thin, deep-red flesh offers a green tea flavor with berry overtones giving a wild perspective on such a traditional dish.
At lunch, I often crave the Barrio Romaine Salad ($8.50). The prominent Cotija cheese dressing has a salty taste and clings to the romaine leaves. Adding pickled red onions for a nice tang and avocado for creaminess, this salad has been transformed into Caesar on steroids. Due to my nut allergy, I had to opt out from the addition of chili peanuts; however, my dining companion said they provided a nice crunch and just a hint of heat.
The culinary excitement I get here always leaves my taste buds to wonder what’s coming next. Be that as it may, the Barrio Bowl ($14) is a win in the dish itself, but I expected an interesting twist and this one just fell flat for me.
Its savior was the Brazil Bowl ($15). Having protein options of grilled chicken, carnitas and tofu, the tofu was the best out of the three. Coconut rice, black beans and just the right amount of mango salsa kept the dish simple. Adding the coconut chili sauce just made the whole dish sing.
I am very critical of any tamale dish, as one of my good friends is the master and even has taught me some tricks. Although not as good as his, these were still pretty tasty. The chili Colorado (red chili sauce) was my favorite part. The jasmine rice soaked up the bold flavor of the sauce and the chipotle corn salad was the perfect accessory.
What’s a Mexican restaurant without tacos? Here you have six to choose from and they range from $13 – $15. Coming three to a plate, each are prepared with house-made tortillas, made from freshly ground corn. All types of combinations are available.
On one visit, I could not resist myself and ordered three different ones. Each night the white fish changes for the fish tacos and that night diced Mahi Mahi was wrapped with a Thai slaw and chipotle aioli. This version showcased the best, and chef Isabel’s Asian influence and creative thinking could not be more prevalent with this dish.
Outside of all the well-prepared food, you will find a mouthwatering drink and Tequila menu. The bartenders are the masters in town for a good margarita. Every ounce of lime, lemon and orange is freshly squeezed into your glass.
Your choices of Tequila are endless. Everything from the simple everyday variety to some of the rarest produced in Mexico. Belly up to the bar, as most likely you’ll be waiting for a table, and order one of the house crafted specialties for only $8. Everything about these drinks is smooth and tasty.
The very friendly servers have a way of talking you into more and before you know it, you’ve had three.
The atmosphere is loud and colorful with the crowd being peppy and vivid. Don’t be afraid to get to know your neighbor sitting next to you as the tables are so close you won’t have a choice. The pretention is low here, the music loud and it is unquestionably a boisterous place to spend an evening with a group of friends.
We are lucky to have this gem so close to our community and Barrio Star is a modern day Mexican gem.
Barrio Star
2706 Fifth Ave.
San Diego, CA 92103
619-501-7827
